First experience

Growing up with many fears, the biggest one I have never overcome is waves.  I’ve almost drowned 3 times in my life, and the last time was so close.   I hate the thought of being afraid of something that most people enjoy.  So it was time for me to face it, finally, at 35 years of age.

So, today I signed up for a single surfing lesson with the surf school, my first lesson was with a female instructor named Claire.  It was a good introduction with safety info.  Learned about rip gutters, and how the flow works there at Maroubra Beach.  I could hardly stay on the board, even lying down.  However I managed to push up and ride a few small shore foamies in to the sand.  I was now an official kook! but yeah, I can see why it’s not for everyone, but even the feeling of just being out there was mad, cool weather, cold water.  But the place hired out wet-suits and boards as a package so it was pretty easy and cheap for the all inclusive 2 hour lesson.

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