Growing up with many fears, the biggest one I have never overcome is waves. I’ve almost drowned 3 times in my life, and the last time was so close. I hate the thought of being afraid of something that most people enjoy. So it was time for me to face it, finally, at 35 years of age.
So, today I signed up for a single surfing lesson with the surf school, my first lesson was with a female instructor named Claire. It was a good introduction with safety info. Learned about rip gutters, and how the flow works there at Maroubra Beach. I could hardly stay on the board, even lying down. However I managed to push up and ride a few small shore foamies in to the sand. I was now an official kook! but yeah, I can see why it’s not for everyone, but even the feeling of just being out there was mad, cool weather, cold water. But the place hired out wet-suits and boards as a package so it was pretty easy and cheap for the all inclusive 2 hour lesson.