So today, I went out, bravely or perhaps stupidly into 6 foot waves.
I paddled out in the south rip with a guy that teaches in the surf school, he was semi warning against it, but when he realised I was definitely going out he said “just one tip, paddle like hell”. Having now developed some decent paddle strength, I had no issue, I saw a massive wave, which was pretty intimidating for me as a beginner, the surf instructor next to me said “ohhh mannn…” and it made me think “oh shiitt” I saw him duck dive just before it was about to smash on us, So I did all I could with a foamie beginners board and chucked an eskimo roll to get under the wave, it worked fine! and saved my ass. I had just made it out the the back of some massive surf for the first time. I was getting some funny looks, some people were smiling, I knew they were just thinking “what the fuck is this guy doing out here on a foamie, as a beginner? He is going to get killed”, that’s when one old timer said to me “This isn’t really beginners waves today” I replied, “yeah I figured as much”. another guy that teaches at the surf school came paddling over from the other side grinning at me, I said “probably a bit big for me lol”, he replied, “Yeah I agree”. Anyway I now realised I had to get back in, and the only way in was on a wave that was too big for me to surf, I floated over the swell just before it was turning into a wave and i looked down at the drop, it was a long way to the water below, and it was pretty scary so I kept paddling across north hoping to find some smaller waves, but had no luck. I just had to have a crack. I saw another big lump of water forming into a wave, I thought I’d just make it over it like the other swells, I paddled up the face, and just as I thought I was clear, i felt my board and me going backwards, and thought ” ooh shit” Anyway, next thing i know im under the water for a good 30 seconds easily, I had already learnt to just relax and not panic, so I just floated completely relaxed as it washed me around. After It stopped spinning me around I started doing breast strokes to the surface, took about 5 big ones, and I was back up. First thing I did was look to see where the next wave was in case I had to take another big breath. But it had pushed me a long way in, over halfway back to the beach! i Saw the aftermath of another big wave, which was just foam rolling at me (thank god) and i scrambled to my board, and just rode it in to shore. I didn’t go out the back again that day, and just paddled around on some shories. I knew I could survive in the bigger stuff now, but I just don’t have the ability to surf it as of yet.