So I spent 1.5 hours up the north end today, got on a few mad ones, but the best wave of the day, my leg rope wrapped around my feet and prevented me from widening my stance so I lost that one.
I then moved down the south end for another 40 mins, heapppps messy ker-plunk style dunkin biscuit in a cup surf, but I made it out the back in the rip which had shitty sloppy bi-directional waves crashing over it. Once out the back I got a decent one in but you could see it have to glance off bits of cross swell and shit and drop down to different levels, wasn’t easy to stand up on. It was a cup of tea with a dunking biscuit.
Here’s a photo of the peak low tide when I finished my session just now, enjoy.🙂