So today was mostly 2 ft, I got on a few, was mad. Tried to turn and stacked it, but all good I’m getting there. got a couple of cuts on my feet, not sure what from, maybe the rocks closer to shore on the bottom. Usually i miss those or only end up standing on the flat smooth ones.
I saw 2 girls that used to work at the same place when I worked for Sydney Trains. Apparently it’s the same shit-hole I left late 2017. So I’m glad I’m not there anymore.
I’m back working again the next 2 days so, I probably won’t be posting until Wednesday when I get a chance to go back out into waves again.