Finally I am going left, which is mad, only for a short time, but any progress is good!

Today was around 1ft and 2ft waves. They looked better than what they were, I could basically paddle through any wave that broke on me on my foam 8ft board, and the wave would hardly push me back, which was an indication of how weak this swell was. The only choice for a beginner today was right out the back for the cleanest wave you could catch. However you had to paddle like hell even for those, they required a huge effort to get on.

I probably only got 5 waves in 2 hours, I had to keep moving, people were swarming the area, school holidays = 10 year olds left right and centre.

Saw Tyson driving his Lifeguard buggy, and he recommended in line with the skate park, which was good advice as nearly every wave I got was in that spot.

Tomorrow I’m going to wake up late so I’ll go to Maroubra again, after that I’ll be heading down south to Wanda / Wonoona / Sharkies.

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