Mad Fun, but rough surf.

Today wasn’t good for learning but I got a few, got smashed hard in the face by my board a couple of times, beach was closed due to dangerous rips, which meant messy conditions but less swimmers and surfers out there so I could pick my own little spot often. Only people out there today were experts or beginners with balls or no brains or both, and I’m no expert.

South end was rough as all hell, had to hold my board hard to try to drop in on a wave as it just wanted to pull me back in and smash me. But if you managed to stay on your board as it dropped drown to another water level and smashed, it shot you out with super speed, and surfing something pushing that fast was mad fun. I also met a dude named willy who was cool and has been surfing 3 years but doesn’t stand up on his board yet, which is kinda weird.

I met a guy named willy who after 3 years still doesn’t stand up, he said he prefers to go on his knees, I feel like it’s time for him to stand (weird!), anyway I’ll push him to stand the more I go out there and see him lol. He won’t regret it!

I’m going out tomorrow hopefully around 9-10am.

Overall my best wave of the day was at the North End, my very first wave of the day!. But as it was busy, it was more of a hazard being too many people surfing so I changed to the South end of the beach.

This morning also I had to clean part of my board and scrape the wax off the bottom 3rd of the board, The wax I was using was for cool water, and had a low melting point, so I rub it off easy every time i surf in the hot sun.

Today i cleaned it up and put on Tropical Wax so it wouldn’t melt off easily. As a base coat, being a foamie it doesn’t need much more than a base coat.

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