Today was the first time I ever went to a different beach, I went down south to meet my mate Chad, who was already out the back at the north end.
The setup of Rip currents was different st this beach they went out then fed into a set, then you had to paddle left of that set to get back into the rip, this happens about 3 times in a row, before you get out the back to the largest waves, which was kinda weird for me.
I got out the back twice and got smashed and I got over getting smashed on my foamie, it was a bit intimidating, I felt like a massive kook today so I went in. Nobody told me it was a rock bed reef on the north side….
So I kinda ran aground there and had to get my board level and paddle back out in like 30cm of water until I was clear again.
Chad wondered where I’d been. Eventually he went home as he didn’t want to surf by himself and I just had no clue what I was doing at this beach in these conditions. It really humbled me, and made me realise how far away I am from being a good surfer.
I will be back st Sharkies soon, I want to know it like I know Maroubra! Once I master the way that beach works. In many conditions I can add it to my list of beaches to frequent.