So on the 30th was my last surf, was a bit hard for me at the day in the conditions, and the ones out the back weren’t so easy to get on for me.
Yesterday I had a day off so I wouldn’t fall asleep at work all night on the biggest event of the year.
Today is new years day, so I’m going to hit it, wish I didn’t work so late I would have loved to hit the morning surf it’s much nicer to go out in. Anyway it is hot as hell here, sun is so strong and I got my hat and sunscreen and zinc, I look like a Native American Indian in war paint, I have that much zinc on my face haha.
Anyway I’ll post what the result of today was soon. I intend on getting a go-pro and a drone at some stage. But for now it’s just text.