1-1.5ft

Today, some 1-1.5 ft surf, I took out the Softech Fatboy, designed for small broken waves, but i managed with beginning to drop in, then throwing my body so far back by legs were off the back and the nose lifted up, to actually make this board drop in. If you try to do it normally it nose dives and flips, it is not designed for green waves. But once you are on the green wave, it is awesome, you can’t fall off and you ride forever. After I got sick of awkward drop ins or rolling over trying to get on a wave with the Fatboy, i switched to my 8 foot SX soft board, less buoyant but the rocker is enough to allow me to drop in on anything I want.

Had mad fun till the biggest kooks in the world turned up and consistently blocked everyone by getting in the way. One dude had a shortboard, when it was clear he wouldn’t be able to even stand on a boat, this is the whole surfing trendy shit, where people are fixated on looking cool to the point where they’d rather look cool than learn how to surf.

Even my friend Charmaine keeps telling me she wants a short board, and the person in the shop told her to buy a short fish board etc.  Yes a fish is good for small surf, but NO it’s not good for beginner surfers.  You need volume to stay up, and to learn you need to be able to actually get up on your board!

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