Only got one wave today, was busy at north end due to cleaner conditions, so Benjamin and myself ate shit down the south and middle, and when my go pro ran out of batteries is when we finally caught some waves. Conditions were pretty shit-house but it was still fun to be out there.
I’ll put some footage up of conditions but it was actually easier to just dive under waves and pull the board through than to turtle roll on our soft-tops. The frequency of the waves was pumping, and there wasn’t enough time to paddle through with turtle rolls, just dive swim pull was our only way out. The rips weren’t much easier than the normal sets to get out the back. It was just pumping everywhere.