I am someone that needed a kind of meditation, but not the kind where I am sitting trying to focus, that’s just impossible for me. I’m talking about the kind of meditation where I have no choice but to focus on the current moment always, due to external influences.
The waves have become that external influence.
And that has given me pure meditation while out in the water, it is better than any medicine.
I’ve done all sorts of things in my life, music, martial arts, bodybuilding, personal training, a trade, worked in IT support, web development, Worked for the railways, Worked security, and Now I am working as a Control Room Operator in security.
I hated pretty much all my jobs of the past, and now I am in a decent one, I wouldn’t say I love it, but it gives me more time to live, so it is easily the best job I ever had.
I’ve done some time Pro Wrestling as a change from competitive bodybuilding, I found I no longer had the passion I once had for lifting weights (15 years at least). I needed a new challenge, the Pro Wrestling world isn’t what it once was, the trends now are not for me. I’ve had to turn to something new, something that is intense enough and fast enough to keep my attention and keep me hooked – Surfing.
I wish I knew how good surfing was many years ago. But at 35 I started learning. I’m making progress and am currently addicted to something about it, not sure if it is the medicinal value of clearing my mind, or if it is just the exercise, or if it is the happiness I feel when I stand up on a wave. Either way, I can’t stop. This is the new drug for me.
I’m going to keep a log, for myself of my progress. Who knows where I’ll go? beaches are all over the place 🙂