Today, some 1-1.5 ft surf, I took out the Softech Fatboy, designed for small broken waves, but i managed with beginning to drop in, then throwing my body so far back by legs were off the back and the nose lifted up, to actually make this board drop in. If you try to do it … Continue reading 1-1.5ft
Itg's been a while since I've seen a decent wave with these North Easterly winds. But at Greenhills today there wasn't much wind and decent 2-3 ft swells. I was dropping in further out than most on my big floaty softboard 8ft. Getting long rides left and right both. Had the best time of my … Continue reading 3 foot clean bombs.
Today I got raped by blue bottles, so many of them stinging me made it hard to enjoy surfing, later in my session i moved further north up the beach where there were surprisingly less blue bottles. Today was at Maroubra, tomorrow will be at Wanda beach. I've also for 2nd week in a row … Continue reading Blue Bottle Raid
Surfing today, I got a blue bottle tail stuck on my hand and palm when paddling, it wasn't that bad to be honest, I don't remember them having such a weak sting. Anyway I got some good waves today and realised - I did the best i could. It may be time to find a … Continue reading Blue Bottle
I went left today for a nice long ride, for the first time ever, i was actually going fully left along a wave and had a nice long ride, and it was cut shorter than I’d like though, by some lesbian tourist and her boyfriend dropping in on the same wave together on 1 board … Continue reading First Left
Today wasn't good for learning but I got a few, got smashed hard in the face by my board a couple of times, beach was closed due to dangerous rips, which meant messy conditions but less swimmers and surfers out there so I could pick my own little spot often. Only people out there today … Continue reading Mad Fun, but rough surf.
Surfing is making me feel less depressed as a whole in life. I don't care as much about the world around me, I feel as if I'm being slowly healed mentally. The forced meditation of surfing environment, is the best type. If you want freedom from mental anguish, I mean complete freedom, from any negative … Continue reading Surfing is healing
Finally I am going left, which is mad, only for a short time, but any progress is good! Today was around 1ft and 2ft waves. They looked better than what they were, I could basically paddle through any wave that broke on me on my foam 8ft board, and the wave would hardly push me … Continue reading Finally
So it makes sense that, when it rains, the surfaces of the streets get rinsed, go down the drain and get run out to sea. And it explains why there is so much pollution in the water after it rains a while. It might be worthwhile me investing in ear plugs for the water so … Continue reading Pollution.
Yesterday I was out at the north end of Maroubra Beach and I decided there was too many other people out in the water. I tried to find a better spot, there was a bit of a better spot near the flagged area. The flagged area is for swimmers only, no surf-craft allowed. As I … Continue reading Lifeguard