Greenhills beach first time today, small ranging from half a foot to 2 foot (rarely). I got my first right, but yeah it was very small and died off. Had fun though! https://drive.google.com/open?id=1tBV-qJwuqI6qK9S9wJH22hmjq7cbDx0s
Had a crack at Wanda today, man it's great for beginners. I thought Maroubra was, this was heaps easier to both get on and stay on waves even though it was small today. I dropped in on a Californian kid once but he was hogging all the waves so fuck him. Anyway, Wanda again in … Continue reading Wanda Beach – First Time
So I got to surf yesterday, but the few days before that I started out having to go to hospital with pain from a kidney stone. Now that is all over I'm back into life. I pick up my new car tomorrow, and hopefully I can get through the next couple of days quickly to … Continue reading Kidney Stone
So I'm waiting for my new board and a new car 🙂 Today I hit the gym hard and hopefully I have a car and freedom to where I want when I want for surfing.
Yesterday I had the best waves so far, yet I had a lack of sleep before work and again today, I've had to take the day off surfing to survive tonight's shift. It sucks, and I wish I didn't have to work. The only thing in life I hate is that I have to work. … Continue reading More progress
So on the 30th was my last surf, was a bit hard for me at the day in the conditions, and the ones out the back weren't so easy to get on for me. Yesterday I had a day off so I wouldn't fall asleep at work all night on the biggest event of the … Continue reading New Year new Waves.
Today the surf looked like organised rows from afar, but it was much harder to stand up on than yesterday. When i did stand up, I felt sideways swell smashing into me and knocking me off my board, I also slipped once, which is strange since I just waxed the board. Anyway it was good … Continue reading Today wipeouts, and getting knocked off.
So yesterday I got the best rides of my life, at least 30 second rides all the way in , from some serious pushing 2 footer and 1 footers. Gave me a chance to practice going left. It was messy so it kept the fresh beginners near the shore and gave me a chance to … Continue reading Yesterday
Today was busy, lumpy, hard to get a good spot to surf, I took other less crowded waves but they were much harder to get on. And often smashed me lol. But it was nice and deep, I actually enjoyed wiping out today in the deep water 🙂
So today was mostly 2 ft, I got on a few, was mad. Tried to turn and stacked it, but all good I'm getting there. got a couple of cuts on my feet, not sure what from, maybe the rocks closer to shore on the bottom. Usually i miss those or only end up standing … Continue reading Mostly 2ft