Today Greenhills beach was like a swimming pool. 0.25-0.5ft waves, rides being ruined by old men dropping in for a body surf, Can't wait till school holidays to be over so the kooks that don't understand safety and etiquette can go do their usual routine.
So here’s the pros and cons of my new big fat green board, Pros Standing on it is like standing on land, very easy. Paddling on it is easy. To keep surfing a wave for longer is easy. Cons Dropping in straight on a wave even with your weight back it will dig in and … Continue reading New Fat Boy
So I forgot to mention getting My new car about a week ago perfect for surfing this hatchback can fit 8ft Baird's lengthways, even 9ft inside with seats down. Honda Jazz is a mad little surf car. Also I am using my new board for the 2nd time, was a bit weird last time!
Greenhills beach first time today, small ranging from half a foot to 2 foot (rarely). I got my first right, but yeah it was very small and died off. Had fun though! https://drive.google.com/open?id=1tBV-qJwuqI6qK9S9wJH22hmjq7cbDx0s
Today I got raped by blue bottles, so many of them stinging me made it hard to enjoy surfing, later in my session i moved further north up the beach where there were surprisingly less blue bottles. Today was at Maroubra, tomorrow will be at Wanda beach. I've also for 2nd week in a row … Continue reading Blue Bottle Raid
Had a crack at Wanda today, man it's great for beginners. I thought Maroubra was, this was heaps easier to both get on and stay on waves even though it was small today. I dropped in on a Californian kid once but he was hogging all the waves so fuck him. Anyway, Wanda again in … Continue reading Wanda Beach – First Time
So I got to surf yesterday, but the few days before that I started out having to go to hospital with pain from a kidney stone. Now that is all over I'm back into life. I pick up my new car tomorrow, and hopefully I can get through the next couple of days quickly to … Continue reading Kidney Stone
So I'm waiting for my new board and a new car 🙂 Today I hit the gym hard and hopefully I have a car and freedom to where I want when I want for surfing.
Yesterday I had the best waves so far, yet I had a lack of sleep before work and again today, I've had to take the day off surfing to survive tonight's shift. It sucks, and I wish I didn't have to work. The only thing in life I hate is that I have to work. … Continue reading More progress
Surfing today, I got a blue bottle tail stuck on my hand and palm when paddling, it wasn't that bad to be honest, I don't remember them having such a weak sting. Anyway I got some good waves today and realised - I did the best i could. It may be time to find a … Continue reading Blue Bottle