Today was mostly 3, 4, and 5 foot Close-Outs. couple of short rides, but the rest was wipe-outs and paddling and just survival for me lol. Better than doing nothing, but I do miss some nicely sloped waves.
Today wasn't good for learning but I got a few, got smashed hard in the face by my board a couple of times, beach was closed due to dangerous rips, which meant messy conditions but less swimmers and surfers out there so I could pick my own little spot often. Only people out there today … Continue reading Mad Fun, but rough surf.
Today, not as big as yesterday but the waves are much more frequent, and maybe only a little smaller, so 5ft and 4ft instead of 6 and 7 ft So, I couldn't be assed trying to go out the back for now, I'm only just getting used to this board. I waxed it up after … Continue reading Beach closed (again)