Surfing today, I got a blue bottle tail stuck on my hand and palm when paddling, it wasn't that bad to be honest, I don't remember them having such a weak sting. Anyway I got some good waves today and realised - I did the best i could. It may be time to find a … Continue reading Blue Bottle
I went left today for a nice long ride, for the first time ever, i was actually going fully left along a wave and had a nice long ride, and it was cut shorter than I’d like though, by some lesbian tourist and her boyfriend dropping in on the same wave together on 1 board … Continue reading First Left
Today wasn't good for learning but I got a few, got smashed hard in the face by my board a couple of times, beach was closed due to dangerous rips, which meant messy conditions but less swimmers and surfers out there so I could pick my own little spot often. Only people out there today … Continue reading Mad Fun, but rough surf.
Finally I am going left, which is mad, only for a short time, but any progress is good! Today was around 1ft and 2ft waves. They looked better than what they were, I could basically paddle through any wave that broke on me on my foam 8ft board, and the wave would hardly push me … Continue reading Finally
So it makes sense that, when it rains, the surfaces of the streets get rinsed, go down the drain and get run out to sea. And it explains why there is so much pollution in the water after it rains a while. It might be worthwhile me investing in ear plugs for the water so … Continue reading Pollution.
So today was mostly 2 ft, I got on a few, was mad. Tried to turn and stacked it, but all good I'm getting there. got a couple of cuts on my feet, not sure what from, maybe the rocks closer to shore on the bottom. Usually i miss those or only end up standing … Continue reading Mostly 2ft
So today, I turned the back of my board, successfully, Not saying I'm going left and right yet, but I'm saying I'm stable enough to start playing around with moving the board for the first time :). Can't wait to go out tomorrow!
So I spent 1.5 hours up the north end today, got on a few mad ones, but the best wave of the day, my leg rope wrapped around my feet and prevented me from widening my stance so I lost that one. I then moved down the south end for another 40 mins, heapppps messy … Continue reading Afternoon small messy but fun surf
So my next lesson isn't until a week later, I decided to just practice standing up on a board, made an area in the yard and just did 50 times either side based on what they showed me in the school. It felt a little better when I was finished, however I knew this wasn't … Continue reading More Practice