First Left

I went left today for a nice long ride, for the first time ever, i was actually going fully left along a wave and had a nice long ride, and it was cut shorter than I’d like though, by some lesbian tourist and her boyfriend dropping in on the same wave together on 1 board … Continue reading First Left

Mad Fun, but rough surf.

Today wasn't good for learning but I got a few, got smashed hard in the face by my board a couple of times, beach was closed due to dangerous rips, which meant messy conditions but less swimmers and surfers out there so I could pick my own little spot often. Only people out there today … Continue reading Mad Fun, but rough surf.

Afternoon small messy but fun surf

So I spent 1.5 hours up the north end today, got on a few mad ones, but the best wave of the day, my leg rope wrapped around my feet and prevented me from widening my stance so I lost that one. I then moved down the south end for another 40  mins, heapppps messy … Continue reading Afternoon small messy but fun surf